Where Europe meets the South Pacific
By: Chris O'Loughlin
Travel Online June 2004
Sheraton Moorea beach and pool bar

Ia Orana.
The
first thing to strike me about Tahiti on arrival was the balmy warm evening. Understandably, it was not too difficult to get use to having come straight from New Zealand's cold and wet winter. Then once day broke, we were met with clear blue sky and all day sun, which remained with us almost entirely for our 7 day holiday. Our first time in Tahiti and so far so good!

 
Getting There
Actually our holiday had begun 5 hours previous, onboard Coach class on Air Tahiti NuiAir Tahiti Nui's new Airbus. I love going away on holiday but dread getting on an aircraft to get there. But then I hadn't flown Air Tahiti Nui before!

Comfortable seats with plenty of legroom, even for "6 foot plus" hubby. Individual screens on the seat-back in front with a selection of 4 or 5 movie channels (in English or French), video games and entertainment channels were a real plus. Couple this with the friendly staff, attentive service and great food, really gave you the feeling of being in business class - but at the 'Coach' price.

 
Accommodation
 

Intercontinental Beachcomber Papeete. The picture doesn't do it justice!We spent 5 nights on Moorea and a night each side in Papeete due to flight schedules (which incidentally are pretty good with Air Tahiti Nui). The facilities at the Intercontinental Beachcomber in Papeete were magnificent. Great bar and pool areas with man made beach, marine ecological pool and waterfall! The sunset looking out towards Moorea is spectacular. The Intercontinental on Moorea was well located with a small shopping centre within walking distance. Both resorts are excellent for families or couples as there is plenty to do - or not - whatever you decide.

The Sheraton Resorts are both well located on Moorea and Tahiti. I loved the beachClown fish on a sea anenome and lagoon area at Sheraton Moorea - the snorkelling was awesome. The superior gardenview room was beautifully decorated and well appointed. (Loved the Hibiscus and Frangipani bath). Happy hour between 4 and 5pm is great if you like to try a few tasty cocktails, and if you are there on a Thursday night, you get treated to free drinks at the pool bar, courtesy of the General Manager. He and the staff were very friendly and the atmosphere was great.

TIP: Tahiti can be expensive for many New Zealanders - particularly the food and drink. I would consider buying a meal plan, or even better choosing the accommodation that includes breakfast in the price like the Sheraton Tahiti. Remember your 'Duty Free's', and try not to leave them in the transfer coach like I did!

 
Getting Around

Unfortunately we were not in Papeete long enough to take a look around town, but it certainly looked like a bustling community. Taxis and 'foot power' are probably the easiest way to get around as there is quite a bit of traffic and a one way system, which could make driving yourself a challenge.

The Aremiti catamaran takes only 30 minutes We took the catamaran from Papeete to Moorea which I have to say was very pleasant (and efficient). Moorea is only 30 minutes by boat (10 minutes by plane), and the view from the top deck was fantastic, both looking back towards the main island of Tahiti and towards Moorea with it's dramatic landscape.

We had organised transfers to the port and then to the resorts once on Moorea. This was a good idea. It seemed like a lot to pay at the time, but it was really worth it as it saved us a lot of time and aggravation - leaving us more time to enjoy the sun, sea and R & R that we had come for.

Once on Moorea, we actually did a bit of walking, particularly to orientate ourselves.Belvedere look out. Cooks Bay to the right, Opunohu to the left But in order to take a good look at the island, you really need to take a Circle Island Tour, 4 wheel drive safari, hire a bicycle, or hire a car. We chose the latter.

The island is not all that big so in a day we were able to drive right around it. There is basically only one road so you can't get lost. We did venture inland to Belvedere, which was worth a look. From the look-out you can see Cooks and Opunohu Bays which is pretty impressive.

Being 'do-it-yourself' Kiwi's, we really enjoyed the flexibility of being able to stop at local shops and restaurants (just remember that many are closed in the middle of the afternoon for siesta), or just going to the local 'supermaché' and stocking up on crusty baguettes, creamy Brie, fresh lettuce and tomatoes, along with a can or two of Hinano, the very palatable local beer.

   
The Culture

We found the local Tahitians delightful. Life on the Island is very casual and friendly, despite the large number of tourists. It was not uncommon to see brightly clothed waiters and waitresses in the large resorts, walking around bare footed, particularly around the pool or beach bars and restaurants. This seemed perfectly natural and given that we saw many staff working very long hours on their feet, think it was probably very practical!

The influence from France is evident everywhere from French sign posts to menus and the fact that the language is spoken freely (along with Tahitian and English). Fresh fruit and coconuts are prevalent everywhere No more so is the French influence apparent than with the variety and style of cuisine. The food, whilst expensive on New Zealand standards, just cannot be faulted. It's just amazing what they can do with a simple hamburger and 'pomme frites' (shoestring fries), and the more formal a la carte meals with their fantastic sauces, are just to die for. Add to this the polynesian influence of local fish and seafood, tropical fruits such as pineapple, coconuts, papaya and guava, and you have delights to suit almost all palates.

Life is very laid back in Moorea, as I believe it also is on the other islands of Bora Bora, Huahine, Raiatea and Taha'a. The people live modestly without a lot of the modern day conveniences. You can't help but envy their seemingly stress free lifestyle, surrounded by beautiful lush and tropical landscapes, tepid water in azure blue lagoons, sunshine in abundance, and fresh fish, fruit and produce.

 
Holiday Tips
 

Map of Society Islands courtesy of Intercontinental BeachcomberFirstly, a holiday in Tahiti is expensive. We were told this before we went, but it still wasn't enough to lessen the shock. My suggestion is - get over it. Don't let this blind you to the beauty and charm of the islands and their people. Once you are there, take time to smell the Frangipani and enjoy. Remember you're on holiday!

So that out of the way, I thought Tahiti was refreshingly different, yet somehow familiar. I liked the European influence mixed with Polynesian lifestyle. The people are charming, fun loving, helpful and genuine. It's a place where you can feel comfortable lazing around in the sun on a deck chair on the beach, kayaking or snorkeling in the lagoon. or sitting in a local restaurant/bar with an Hinano or fruity cocktail in hand, watching island life go by.

Definitely take your camera, digital, video or other as you will find many opportunities to take some spectacular shots. Make sure your batteries are recharged or new as these can be very expensive to replace as we unfortunately found out.

You won't need to pack many clothes. Most of your time will be spent in bathing suit and sarong, and at night something smart casual but cool. Generally the dress is non pretentious, with casual, comfortable and practical being the norm. Apart from the odd souvenir tee-shirt or sarong, the only other thing you'll probably want to buy (whether you can afford it or not), is the fabulous Tahitian pearls. The local girls and guys wear them and they really look stunning. Worth taking a look at anyway.

Overall, we thoroughly enjoyed our Tahiti holiday, particularly as it was in June and we could come back to NZ looking very tanned and very relaxed. It was a special treat and I am sure our memories of this island paradise will last a long time... Well, at least until our next South Pacific holiday!

Au Revoir
Chris


 
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